Eye Shape Style Guide
Upturned Eyes: The Looks That Ride the Lift
The top three looks for upturned eyes — real applied sets. Tap a look for its specs.
Cat-Eye+ specs− close
Cat-Eye+ specs− close
The signature upturned order — natural corner lift carries long outer lengths, curls capped at CC.
- Curl
- C / CC
- Thickness
- 0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
- Lengths
- 8–13 mm mixed-length map
- Trays
- LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Natural+ specs− close
Natural+ specs− close
The shape needs no correction — the set cleans up what is already there.
- Curl
- C
- Thickness
- 0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
- Lengths
- 8–11 mm mixed-length map
- Trays
- LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Squirrel / Fox+ specs− close
Squirrel / Fox+ specs− close
Arch peak with a supported corner; the post-peak taper keeps it distinct from cat-eye.
- Curl
- C / CC
- Thickness
- 0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
- Lengths
- 8–13 mm mixed-length map
- Trays
- LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Cat-eye is the signature look for upturned eyes: the corner already lifts, so long outer lengths hold without droop. Natural and squirrel sets follow as the softer picks. Below: each look on this shape, the map behind it, and the one caution — don’t fight the tilt with a centre peak.
Qingdao Hopeshair Cosmetics Co., Ltd · From the factory’s technical desk
The shape under the looks
The looks above are built on the geometry below. Tap a drawing for the reasoning.
The shape — upturned eyes+ why− close
Upturned Eyes, before any extensions. The outer corner sits visibly higher than the inner corner — the lash line carries a built-in lift at the tail.
Why this build works on upturned eyes
The mapping logic works with the lift, not against it. Curls cap at CC even on dramatic sets — a D curl on an already-lifted corner overshoots into a startled read. Doll mapping is the flagged avoid for this shape because a centre peak fights the natural corner lift; when requested, artists soften it to a flattened peak. Squirrel needs its post-peak taper kept visible, or it collapses into cat-eye.
The build — sample map+ how− close
Every look above is built from a zone map like this one — the zone structure of this shape’s natural-classic map, inner to outer, from our mapping matrix. Exact lengths, curls and thickness unlock in the Style Matcher below. This is one of fifteen maps we chart for this shape; the full set covers all five effects across classic, hybrid and volume.
How each effect behaves on upturned eyes
Natural+ more− close
Natural+ more− close
The recommended balance map — this shape needs no correction, so the set just cleans up what is there.
Doll / Open-Eye+ more− close
Doll / Open-Eye+ more− close
The flagged avoid: a centre peak fights the natural corner lift. Compromise version is a soft flattened peak, CC max.
Cat Eye+ more− close
Cat Eye+ more− close
The signature upturned map — natural lift carries long outer lengths without droop, curls capped at CC.
Squirrel+ more− close
Squirrel+ more− close
Arch peak with a supported corner; the taper after the peak is what keeps it distinct from cat-eye.
Wispy+ more− close
Wispy+ more− close
Outer-centre spike placement that rides the natural lift, spikes held to +2–3mm.
The full map set
All fifteen upturned eyes maps, zone by zone
Every map we chart for this shape — five effects across classic 1:1, hybrid and volume. Seven zones, inner corner to outer. Lengths in millimetres, curl per zone, and the tray each map draws from. These are the working numbers from our mapping matrix, the same data the Style Matcher serves.
Natural
Recommended balance map — the shape needs no correction.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 10 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| C | C | C | C | C | C | C | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 10 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| C | C | C | C | C | C | C | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 10 | 0.05 mm |
| C | C | C | C | C | C | C |
Trend names in this family: Nude set · Wet Look (closed fans) · Hybrid (technique) — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Careful with strong D curls anywhere — on an already-lifted eye they read startled.
Doll / Open-Eye
Compromise flat-peak version only.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| C | C | C | CC | C | C | C | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| C | C | C | CC | C | C | C | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.05 mm |
| C | C | C | CC | C | C | C |
Trend names in this family: Barbie · Open Eye · Kim K (spiked) · Glam (mega volume) — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Doll/open-eye is the flagged AVOID for upturned eyes — centre peak fights the natural corner lift. If requested anyway: soft flattened peak, CC max, never D.
Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Cat-Eye
Signature map for upturned eyes — the natural lift supports long outer lengths without droop.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 13 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | CC | CC | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 13 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | CC | CC | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 13 | 0.05 mm |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | CC | CC |
Trend names in this family: Fox Eye · Kitten (soft tail) · Angel wing · Siren — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Cap curls at CC — D on an upturned corner overshoots into 'startled'.
Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Squirrel / Fox
Handles squirrel beautifully — arch peak + supported corner.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 13 | 12 | 11 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | C | C | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 13 | 12 | 11 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | C | C | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 13 | 12 | 11 | 0.05 mm |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | C | C |
Trend names in this family: Fox-arch · soft lift — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Keep the post-peak taper visible or it collapses into cat-eye.
Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Wispy
Outer-centre spike placement rides the natural lift.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 12 | 11 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | CC | C | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 12 | 11 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | CC | C | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 12 | 11 | 0.05 mm |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | CC | C |
Trend names in this family: Feathered · Anime / Spike · Manga · Hollywood texture — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Spikes stay ≤ +2-3mm over base; no D-curl spikes at the corner.
Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Prefer it interactive? The Style Matcher walks the same matrix by your client’s shape and look, and the complete 120-map handbook bundles all eight shapes in one document — ask on WhatsApp.
Get the lashes for upturned eyes
The three looks above draw from one shelf:
- Curl
- C / CC
- Thickness
- 0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.03–0.07 mm volume fans
- Lengths
- 8–13 mm mixed-length maps
- Trays
- LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
We make the trays these maps call for — private label, from the fiber up: classic lashes, volume lashes, easy fan and premade fans, plus the adhesives and studio tools behind them. Mixed-length trays (7–15mm) cover a full zone map from a single tray.
Tell us the map, we’ll spec the order.
Spec my order on WhatsApp →FAQ
- Which lash style do studios order most for upturned eyes?
- Cat-eye — the natural corner lift supports long outer lengths without droop, making this the signature map for the shape.
- Why are curls capped at CC on upturned eyes?
- The corner is already lifted; adding a D curl overshoots the lift and the whole set reads startled rather than lifted.
- Does doll mapping work on upturned eyes?
- It is the flagged mismatch for this shape — a centre peak fights the natural corner lift. Artists who take the request soften it to a flattened peak with CC as the ceiling.
Pass it on
Share this with your lash team
Send the upturned eyes shelf to the artists who map and order for your studio.
Made one of these maps?
Send us the photo — we feature the best sets. WhatsApp or [email protected].
Other eye shapes
Almond Eyes · Round Eyes · Hooded Eyes · Monolid Eyes · Deep-Set Eyes · Downturned Eyes · Wide-Set Eyes · Close-Set Eyes
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