Eye Shape Style Guide
Hooded Eyes: The Three Looks That Stay Visible
The top three looks for hooded eyes — real applied sets. Tap a look for its specs.
Squirrel / Fox+ specs− close
Squirrel / Fox+ specs− close
The strongest consensus hooded map — the peak sits above the fold, so it stays visible with eyes open.
- Curl
- L / LC
- Thickness
- 0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
- Lengths
- 8–14 mm mixed-length map
- Trays
- LP-CLA-L-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-LC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-L-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-LC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Natural+ specs− close
Natural+ specs− close
Length centred to clear the fold, with an M curl softening the outer corner.
- Curl
- L / LC / M
- Thickness
- 0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
- Lengths
- 8–11 mm mixed-length map
- Trays
- LP-CLA-L-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-LC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-M-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-L-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-LC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-M-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Wispy+ specs− close
Wispy+ specs− close
Light-diameter spikes over a natural base — hooded lids cannot carry heavy texture weight.
- Curl
- L / LC / M
- Thickness
- 0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
- Lengths
- 8–11 mm mixed-length map
- Trays
- LP-CLA-L-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-LC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-M-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-L-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-LC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-M-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Squirrel is the consensus look for hooded eyes — its peak sits above the lid fold, so the set still shows with eyes open. Natural and wispy builds follow the same rule, and all three run on L, LC and M correction curls instead of the usual C/CC/D base. The looks first; the build and the reason behind it below.
Qingdao Hopeshair Cosmetics Co., Ltd · From the factory’s technical desk
The shape under the looks
The looks above are built on the geometry below. Tap a drawing for the reasoning.
The shape — hooded eyes+ why− close
Hooded Eyes, before any extensions. A fold of skin drops over the crease and covers part of the mobile lid — the fold is what the map has to work around.
Why this build works on hooded eyes
Two rules drive every hooded map we produce. First, length lives in the centre and outer-centre zones so the peak clears the fold — never spread flat, never longest at the inner corner. Second, hooding severity is assessed before the map is chosen; there is no universal hooded map. On the contested cat-eye question — one school calls it the best hooded map, others warn it accentuates droop — our charts adopt the resolution of stepping the final zone down 1mm instead of chasing length at the very corner.
The build — sample map+ how− close
Every look above is built from a zone map like this one — the zone structure of this shape’s natural-classic map, inner to outer, from our mapping matrix. Exact lengths, curls and thickness unlock in the Style Matcher below. This is one of fifteen maps we chart for this shape; the full set covers all five effects across classic, hybrid and volume.
How each effect behaves on hooded eyes
Natural+ more− close
Natural+ more− close
Length centred to clear the fold, with an M curl softening the outer corner.
Doll / Open-Eye+ more− close
Doll / Open-Eye+ more− close
Works on mild hooding only — on severe hooding a centre peak can visually close the eye further, and artists shift to squirrel.
Cat Eye+ more− close
Cat Eye+ more− close
The contested map: built to the second-to-last zone, then stepped down 1mm at the corner rather than tapering up.
Squirrel+ more− close
Squirrel+ more− close
The strongest consensus map for hooded eyes — the peak sits above the fold so it stays visible with eyes open.
Wispy+ more− close
Wispy+ more− close
Spikes about 2mm over a natural hooded base, in light diameters only — hooded lids cannot carry heavy texture weight.
The full map set
All fifteen hooded eyes maps, zone by zone
Every map we chart for this shape — five effects across classic 1:1, hybrid and volume. Seven zones, inner corner to outer. Lengths in millimetres, curl per zone, and the tray each map draws from. These are the working numbers from our mapping matrix, the same data the Style Matcher serves.
Natural
Length lives centre / outer-centre so it clears the fold. M curl softens the outer corner.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| L | L | L | LC | LC | L | M | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| L | L | L | LC | LC | L | M | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.05 mm |
| L | L | L | LC | LC | L | M |
Trend names in this family: Nude set · Wet Look (closed fans) · Hybrid (technique) — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Never put the longest lengths at the inner corner or spread length flat — heavies the lid. Assess hooding severity first; no universal hooded map.
Trays: LP-CLA-L-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-LC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-M-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-L-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-LC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-M-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Doll / Open-Eye
Doll works on mild hooding only; peak must clear the fold.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 11 | 10 | 8 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| L | L | LC | LC | LC | L | M | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 11 | 10 | 8 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| L | L | LC | LC | LC | L | M | ||
| Volume | 8 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 11 | 10 | 8 | 0.05 mm |
| L | L | LC | LC | LC | L | M |
Trend names in this family: Barbie · Open Eye · Kim K (spiked) · Glam (mega volume) — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. On severe hooding a centre peak can visually close the eye further — shift to squirrel instead.
Trays: LP-CLA-L-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-LC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-M-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-L-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-LC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-M-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Cat-Eye
LashPlus version: build to Z6, then step DOWN 1mm at Z7.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 12 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| L | L | L | LC | LC | LC | M | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 12 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| L | L | L | LC | LC | LC | M | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 12 | 0.05 mm |
| L | L | L | LC | LC | LC | M |
Trend names in this family: Fox Eye · Kitten (soft tail) · Angel wing · Siren — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Cat-eye on hooded is itself contested: one school calls it the best hooded map, others warn it accentuates droop. Resolution adopted: drop the final zone ~1mm instead of continuing the taper up — never chase length at the very corner.
Trays: LP-CLA-L-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-LC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-M-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-L-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-LC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-M-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Squirrel / Fox
Best-consensus hooded map — the peak sits above the fold so it stays visible with eyes open.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 13 | 11 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| L | L | L | LC | LC | LC | L | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 13 | 11 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| L | L | L | LC | LC | LC | L | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 13 | 11 | 0.05 mm |
| L | L | L | LC | LC | LC | L |
Trend names in this family: Fox-arch · soft lift — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Keep inner zones short and light.
Trays: LP-CLA-L-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-LC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-L-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-LC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Wispy
Spikes +2mm on a natural hooded base; L/M spikes.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| L | L | L | LC | M | M | M | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| L | L | L | LC | M | M | M | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.05 mm |
| L | L | L | LC | M | M | M |
Trend names in this family: Feathered · Anime / Spike · Manga · Hollywood texture — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Light diameters only — hooded lids cannot carry heavy texture weight.
Trays: LP-CLA-L-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-LC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-M-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-L-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-LC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-M-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Prefer it interactive? The Style Matcher walks the same matrix by your client’s shape and look, and the complete 120-map handbook bundles all eight shapes in one document — ask on WhatsApp.
Get the lashes for hooded eyes
The three looks above draw from one shelf:
- Curl
- L / LC / M
- Thickness
- 0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.03–0.07 mm volume fans
- Lengths
- 8–14 mm mixed-length maps
- Trays
- LP-CLA-L-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-LC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-M-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-L-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-LC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-M-0.05 mix 7-15mm
We make the trays these maps call for — private label, from the fiber up: classic lashes, volume lashes, easy fan and premade fans, plus the adhesives and studio tools behind them. Mixed-length trays (7–15mm) cover a full zone map from a single tray.
Tell us the map, we’ll spec the order.
Spec my order on WhatsApp →FAQ
- What curls work for hooded eyes?
- L, LC and M curls — the strong-lift correction family. Their sharper lift angle gets the extension up and over the fold where standard C curls disappear.
- Is cat-eye good or bad for hooded eyes?
- Schools disagree: some rank it the best hooded map, others warn it accentuates droop. The practical resolution our charts use: build the length to the second-to-last zone, then drop the final zone about 1mm instead of extending the taper.
- Which style has the broadest consensus for hooded eyes?
- The squirrel map — its peak sits above the fold and stays visible with the eyes open, which is the core hooded-eye problem.
Pass it on
Share this with your lash team
Send the hooded eyes shelf to the artists who map and order for your studio.
Made one of these maps?
Send us the photo — we feature the best sets. WhatsApp or [email protected].
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