Eye Shape Style Guide
Deep-Set Eyes: The Looks That Bring the Light Back
The top three looks for deep-set eyes — real applied sets. Tap a look for its specs.
Doll / Open-Eye+ specs− close
Doll / Open-Eye+ specs− close
The industry-standard deep-set map — a centre peak lifts focus out of the socket shadow.
- Curl
- C / CC
- Thickness
- 0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
- Lengths
- 8–12 mm mixed-length map
- Trays
- LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Natural+ specs− close
Natural+ specs− close
Soft C curls with corners tapered 2–3mm below a conservative centre.
- Curl
- C
- Thickness
- 0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
- Lengths
- 8–11 mm mixed-length map
- Trays
- LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Squirrel / Fox+ specs− close
Squirrel / Fox+ specs− close
Peak under the brow arch keeps light in the eye without corner weight.
- Curl
- C / CC
- Thickness
- 0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
- Lengths
- 8–12 mm mixed-length map
- Trays
- LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Doll / open-eye is the industry-standard look for deep-set eyes — a centre peak that lifts focus out of the socket shadow — with soft natural and squirrel sets behind it. Every one of these looks runs on fine diameters; heavy lashes stack shadow on shadow. The looks first, then the builds and why.
Qingdao Hopeshair Cosmetics Co., Ltd · From the factory’s technical desk
The shape under the looks
The looks above are built on the geometry below. Tap a drawing for the reasoning.
The shape — deep-set eyes+ why− close
Deep-Set Eyes, before any extensions. The eye sits further back in the socket under a strong brow bone, with a deep, shadowed crease.
Why this build works on deep-set eyes
Deep-set mapping is about bringing light forward. The centre peak of a doll map lifts focus out of the socket shadow — the industry-standard answer for this shape — while cat-eye is explicitly not the default: outer-corner weight reinforces the recessed look and is reserved for clients whose outer corner is naturally lifted. Corners taper 2–3mm below the peak, and texture stays airy; dense spikes read as more shadow.
The build — sample map+ how− close
Every look above is built from a zone map like this one — the zone structure of this shape’s natural-classic map, inner to outer, from our mapping matrix. Exact lengths, curls and thickness unlock in the Style Matcher below. This is one of fifteen maps we chart for this shape; the full set covers all five effects across classic, hybrid and volume.
How each effect behaves on deep-set eyes
Natural+ more− close
Natural+ more− close
Soft C curls with a conservative centre and corners tapering 2–3mm below the peak.
Doll / Open-Eye+ more− close
Doll / Open-Eye+ more− close
The industry-standard deep-set map — a centre peak that lifts focus out of the socket shadow.
Cat Eye+ more− close
Cat Eye+ more− close
A softened variant only: modest outer build, no hard corner jump, and only for naturally lifted outer corners.
Squirrel+ more− close
Squirrel+ more− close
Peak under the brow arch — keeps light in the eye without corner weight.
Wispy+ more− close
Wispy+ more− close
Centre-weighted spikes that catch light and brighten the socket; kept airy, never dense.
The full map set
All fifteen deep-set eyes maps, zone by zone
Every map we chart for this shape — five effects across classic 1:1, hybrid and volume. Seven zones, inner corner to outer. Lengths in millimetres, curl per zone, and the tray each map draws from. These are the working numbers from our mapping matrix, the same data the Style Matcher serves.
Natural
Soft C curls; conservative centre; corners taper 2-3mm below the peak.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| C | C | C | C | C | C | C | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| C | C | C | C | C | C | C | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.05 mm |
| C | C | C | C | C | C | C |
Trend names in this family: Nude set · Wet Look (closed fans) · Hybrid (technique) — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Fine diameters only (0.05-0.07 volume / light classic) — heavy lashes create shadow-on-shadow and recess the eye further.
Doll / Open-Eye
Industry-standard deep-set map — centre peak lifts focus out of the socket shadow.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 11 | 12 | 11 | 10 | 8 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| C | C | CC | CC | CC | C | C | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 11 | 12 | 11 | 10 | 8 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| C | C | CC | CC | CC | C | C | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 11 | 12 | 11 | 10 | 8 | 0.05 mm |
| C | C | CC | CC | CC | C | C |
Trend names in this family: Barbie · Open Eye · Kim K (spiked) · Glam (mega volume) — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Fine diameters only (0.05-0.07 volume / light classic) — heavy lashes create shadow-on-shadow and recess the eye further.
Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Cat-Eye
Softened cat: modest outer build, no hard corner jump.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 12 | 11 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| C | C | C | C | CC | CC | C | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 12 | 11 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| C | C | C | C | CC | CC | C | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 12 | 11 | 0.05 mm |
| C | C | C | C | CC | CC | C |
Trend names in this family: Fox Eye · Kitten (soft tail) · Angel wing · Siren — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Cat-eye is NOT the default for deep-set — outer-corner weight reinforces the heavy, recessed look; only for clients with a naturally lifted outer corner. Fine diameters only (0.05-0.07 volume / light classic) — heavy lashes create shadow-on-shadow and recess the eye further.
Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Squirrel / Fox
Peak under the brow arch keeps light in the eye without corner weight.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 12 | 11 | 10 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | C | C | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 12 | 11 | 10 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | C | C | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 12 | 12 | 11 | 10 | 0.05 mm |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | C | C |
Trend names in this family: Fox-arch · soft lift — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Fine diameters only (0.05-0.07 volume / light classic) — heavy lashes create shadow-on-shadow and recess the eye further.
Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Wispy
Centre-weighted spikes +2mm; multi-dimensional texture catches light and brightens the socket.
| Map | Z1 | Z2 | Z3 | Z4 | Z5 | Z6 | Z7 | Thickness |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic 1:1 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.12-0.15 mm |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | C | C | ||
| Hybrid | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | C | C | ||
| Volume | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 0.05 mm |
| C | C | C | CC | CC | C | C |
Trend names in this family: Feathered · Anime / Spike · Manga · Hollywood texture — decoder
Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Texture must stay airy — dense spikes read as shadow on deep-set eyes. Fine diameters only (0.05-0.07 volume / light classic) — heavy lashes create shadow-on-shadow and recess the eye further.
Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Prefer it interactive? The Style Matcher walks the same matrix by your client’s shape and look, and the complete 120-map handbook bundles all eight shapes in one document — ask on WhatsApp.
Get the lashes for deep-set eyes
The three looks above draw from one shelf:
- Curl
- C / CC
- Thickness
- 0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.03–0.07 mm volume fans
- Lengths
- 8–12 mm mixed-length maps
- Trays
- LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
We make the trays these maps call for — private label, from the fiber up: classic lashes, volume lashes, easy fan and premade fans, plus the adhesives and studio tools behind them. Mixed-length trays (7–15mm) cover a full zone map from a single tray.
Tell us the map, we’ll spec the order.
Spec my order on WhatsApp →FAQ
- What lash diameters work for deep-set eyes?
- Fine only: 0.05–0.07 volume fans or light classic diameters. This is the one rule that spans every deep-set style — heavy lashes create shadow-on-shadow and push the eye further back.
- Which style is the standard for deep-set eyes?
- The doll / open-eye map has the broadest industry backing — its centre peak pulls visual focus forward and out of the socket shadow.
- Is cat-eye recommended for deep-set eyes?
- Not as a default. Outer-corner weight reinforces the heavy, recessed look; softened cat variants are reserved for clients with a naturally lifted outer corner.
Pass it on
Share this with your lash team
Send the deep-set eyes shelf to the artists who map and order for your studio.
Made one of these maps?
Send us the photo — we feature the best sets. WhatsApp or [email protected].
Other eye shapes
Almond Eyes · Round Eyes · Hooded Eyes · Monolid Eyes · Upturned Eyes · Downturned Eyes · Wide-Set Eyes · Close-Set Eyes
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