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Eye Shape Style Guide

Deep-Set Eyes: The Looks That Bring the Light Back

The top three looks for deep-set eyes — real applied sets. Tap a look for its specs.

Doll / Open-Eye lash extensions on deep-set eyes, close up

Doll / Open-Eye+ specs

The industry-standard deep-set map — a centre peak lifts focus out of the socket shadow.

Curl
C / CC
Thickness
0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
Lengths
8–12 mm mixed-length map
Trays
LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Natural lash extensions on deep-set eyes, close up

Natural+ specs

Soft C curls with corners tapered 2–3mm below a conservative centre.

Curl
C
Thickness
0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
Lengths
8–11 mm mixed-length map
Trays
LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Squirrel / Fox lash extensions on deep-set eyes, close up

Squirrel / Fox+ specs

Peak under the brow arch keeps light in the eye without corner weight.

Curl
C / CC
Thickness
0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
Lengths
8–12 mm mixed-length map
Trays
LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm

Doll / open-eye is the industry-standard look for deep-set eyes — a centre peak that lifts focus out of the socket shadow — with soft natural and squirrel sets behind it. Every one of these looks runs on fine diameters; heavy lashes stack shadow on shadow. The looks first, then the builds and why.

Qingdao Hopeshair Cosmetics Co., Ltd · From the factory’s technical desk

The shape under the looks

The looks above are built on the geometry below. Tap a drawing for the reasoning.

deep crease

The shape — deep-set eyes+ why

Deep-Set Eyes, before any extensions. The eye sits further back in the socket under a strong brow bone, with a deep, shadowed crease.

Why this build works on deep-set eyes

Deep-set mapping is about bringing light forward. The centre peak of a doll map lifts focus out of the socket shadow — the industry-standard answer for this shape — while cat-eye is explicitly not the default: outer-corner weight reinforces the recessed look and is reserved for clients whose outer corner is naturally lifted. Corners taper 2–3mm below the peak, and texture stays airy; dense spikes read as more shadow.

Z1••Z2••Z3••Z4••Z5••Z6••Z7••innerouterLENGTH MMCURLdeep crease

The build — sample map+ how

Every look above is built from a zone map like this one — the zone structure of this shape’s natural-classic map, inner to outer, from our mapping matrix. Exact lengths, curls and thickness unlock in the Style Matcher below. This is one of fifteen maps we chart for this shape; the full set covers all five effects across classic, hybrid and volume.

How each effect behaves on deep-set eyes

Deep-Set Eyes lash mapping: Natural effect, close up

Natural+ more

Soft C curls with a conservative centre and corners tapering 2–3mm below the peak.

Deep-Set Eyes lash mapping: Doll / Open-Eye effect, close up

Doll / Open-Eye+ more

The industry-standard deep-set map — a centre peak that lifts focus out of the socket shadow.

Deep-Set Eyes lash mapping: Cat Eye effect, close up

Cat Eye+ more

A softened variant only: modest outer build, no hard corner jump, and only for naturally lifted outer corners.

Deep-Set Eyes lash mapping: Squirrel effect, close up

Squirrel+ more

Peak under the brow arch — keeps light in the eye without corner weight.

Deep-Set Eyes lash mapping: Wispy effect, close up

Wispy+ more

Centre-weighted spikes that catch light and brighten the socket; kept airy, never dense.

The full map set

All fifteen deep-set eyes maps, zone by zone

Every map we chart for this shape — five effects across classic 1:1, hybrid and volume. Seven zones, inner corner to outer. Lengths in millimetres, curl per zone, and the tray each map draws from. These are the working numbers from our mapping matrix, the same data the Style Matcher serves.

Natural

Soft C curls; conservative centre; corners taper 2-3mm below the peak.

MapZ1Z2Z3Z4Z5Z6Z7Thickness
Classic 1:1 89101111109 0.12-0.15 mm
CCCCCCC
Hybrid 89101111109 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans
CCCCCCC
Volume 89101111109 0.05 mm
CCCCCCC

Trend names in this family: Nude set · Wet Look (closed fans) · Hybrid (technique) — decoder

Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Fine diameters only (0.05-0.07 volume / light classic) — heavy lashes create shadow-on-shadow and recess the eye further.

Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm

Doll / Open-Eye

Industry-standard deep-set map — centre peak lifts focus out of the socket shadow.

MapZ1Z2Z3Z4Z5Z6Z7Thickness
Classic 1:1 89111211108 0.12-0.15 mm
CCCCCCCCCC
Hybrid 89111211108 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans
CCCCCCCCCC
Volume 89111211108 0.05 mm
CCCCCCCCCC

Trend names in this family: Barbie · Open Eye · Kim K (spiked) · Glam (mega volume) — decoder

Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Fine diameters only (0.05-0.07 volume / light classic) — heavy lashes create shadow-on-shadow and recess the eye further.

Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm

Cat-Eye

Softened cat: modest outer build, no hard corner jump.

MapZ1Z2Z3Z4Z5Z6Z7Thickness
Classic 1:1 891011121211 0.12-0.15 mm
CCCCCCCCC
Hybrid 891011121211 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans
CCCCCCCCC
Volume 891011121211 0.05 mm
CCCCCCCCC

Trend names in this family: Fox Eye · Kitten (soft tail) · Angel wing · Siren — decoder

Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Cat-eye is NOT the default for deep-set — outer-corner weight reinforces the heavy, recessed look; only for clients with a naturally lifted outer corner. Fine diameters only (0.05-0.07 volume / light classic) — heavy lashes create shadow-on-shadow and recess the eye further.

Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm

Squirrel / Fox

Peak under the brow arch keeps light in the eye without corner weight.

MapZ1Z2Z3Z4Z5Z6Z7Thickness
Classic 1:1 891012121110 0.12-0.15 mm
CCCCCCCCC
Hybrid 891012121110 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans
CCCCCCCCC
Volume 891012121110 0.05 mm
CCCCCCCCC

Trend names in this family: Fox-arch · soft lift — decoder

Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Fine diameters only (0.05-0.07 volume / light classic) — heavy lashes create shadow-on-shadow and recess the eye further.

Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm

Wispy

Centre-weighted spikes +2mm; multi-dimensional texture catches light and brightens the socket.

MapZ1Z2Z3Z4Z5Z6Z7Thickness
Classic 1:1 89101111109 0.12-0.15 mm
CCCCCCCCC
Hybrid 89101111109 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans
CCCCCCCCC
Volume 89101111109 0.05 mm
CCCCCCCCC

Trend names in this family: Feathered · Anime / Spike · Manga · Hollywood texture — decoder

Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Texture must stay airy — dense spikes read as shadow on deep-set eyes. Fine diameters only (0.05-0.07 volume / light classic) — heavy lashes create shadow-on-shadow and recess the eye further.

Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm

Prefer it interactive? The Style Matcher walks the same matrix by your client’s shape and look, and the complete 120-map handbook bundles all eight shapes in one document — ask on WhatsApp.

Get the lashes for deep-set eyes

The three looks above draw from one shelf:

Curl
C / CC
Thickness
0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.03–0.07 mm volume fans
Lengths
8–12 mm mixed-length maps
Trays
LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm

We make the trays these maps call for — private label, from the fiber up: classic lashes, volume lashes, easy fan and premade fans, plus the adhesives and studio tools behind them. Mixed-length trays (7–15mm) cover a full zone map from a single tray.

Tell us the map, we’ll spec the order.

Spec my order on WhatsApp →

FAQ

What lash diameters work for deep-set eyes?
Fine only: 0.05–0.07 volume fans or light classic diameters. This is the one rule that spans every deep-set style — heavy lashes create shadow-on-shadow and push the eye further back.
Which style is the standard for deep-set eyes?
The doll / open-eye map has the broadest industry backing — its centre peak pulls visual focus forward and out of the socket shadow.
Is cat-eye recommended for deep-set eyes?
Not as a default. Outer-corner weight reinforces the heavy, recessed look; softened cat variants are reserved for clients with a naturally lifted outer corner.

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