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Eye Shape Style Guide

Downturned Eyes: The Looks That Lift the Corner

The top three looks for downturned eyes — real applied sets. Tap a look for its specs.

Doll / Open-Eye lash extensions on downturned eyes, close up

Doll / Open-Eye+ specs

The top-recommended downturned map — centre length lifts the eye, strong outer curl finishes the lift.

Curl
C / CC / D
Thickness
0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
Lengths
8–12 mm mixed-length map
Trays
LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-D-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-D-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Squirrel / Fox lash extensions on downturned eyes, close up

Squirrel / Fox+ specs

Length toward the centre and arch — opens the eye without exaggerating the tilt.

Curl
C / CC / D
Thickness
0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
Lengths
8–13 mm mixed-length map
Trays
LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-D-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-D-0.05 mix 7-15mm
Natural lash extensions on downturned eyes, close up

Natural+ specs

Curl steps up toward the corner while length steps down — the curl does the lifting.

Curl
C / CC
Thickness
0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.05–0.07 mm volume fans
Lengths
8–11 mm mixed-length map
Trays
LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm

Doll / open-eye leads studio orders for downturned eyes — centre length lifts the eye while strong outer curl finishes the job — with squirrel and curl-driven natural sets behind it. The mechanic all three share: lift comes from curl, not length. The looks first; the builds and the reasoning below.

Qingdao Hopeshair Cosmetics Co., Ltd · From the factory’s technical desk

The shape under the looks

The looks above are built on the geometry below. Tap a drawing for the reasoning.

The shape — downturned eyes+ why

Downturned Eyes, before any extensions. The outer corner drops below the inner corner; the lash line tilts down toward the tail.

Why this build works on downturned eyes

One contraindication anchors this whole shape: classic cat-eye. Outer length emphasizes the droop and leaves clients looking sad or sleepy — a rare point of full industry consensus, with no dissenting school in our source review. The lift-modified compromise peaks at zone 5, then drops length while D curl replaces it. The doll map is the top-recommended order: centre length lifts the whole eye and strong outer curl finishes the job, with outer zones kept 2–3mm below the peak.

Z1••Z2••Z3••Z4••Z5••Z6••Z7••innerouterLENGTH MMCURL

The build — sample map+ how

Every look above is built from a zone map like this one — the zone structure of this shape’s natural-classic map, inner to outer, from our mapping matrix. Exact lengths, curls and thickness unlock in the Style Matcher below. This is one of fifteen maps we chart for this shape; the full set covers all five effects across classic, hybrid and volume.

How each effect behaves on downturned eyes

Downturned Eyes lash mapping: Natural effect, close up

Natural+ more

Curl steps up toward the corner while length steps down — outer-corner length never exceeds the centre.

Downturned Eyes lash mapping: Doll / Open-Eye effect, close up

Doll / Open-Eye+ more

The top-recommended downturned map: centre length lifts the eye, strong outer curl finishes the lift.

Downturned Eyes lash mapping: Cat Eye effect, close up

Cat Eye+ more

Classic cat is contraindicated; the chart offered is a lift-modified compromise — peak at zone 5, then length drops as D curl takes over.

Downturned Eyes lash mapping: Squirrel effect, close up

Squirrel+ more

Balanced lift with length toward the centre and arch — opens the eye without exaggerating the tilt.

Downturned Eyes lash mapping: Wispy effect, close up

Wispy+ more

Centre-weighted spikes on a doll base — never spikes in the last two zones, where they read as droop.

The full map set

All fifteen downturned eyes maps, zone by zone

Every map we chart for this shape — five effects across classic 1:1, hybrid and volume. Seven zones, inner corner to outer. Lengths in millimetres, curl per zone, and the tray each map draws from. These are the working numbers from our mapping matrix, the same data the Style Matcher serves.

Natural

Curl steps UP toward the outer corner while length steps down — lift via curl.

MapZ1Z2Z3Z4Z5Z6Z7Thickness
Classic 1:1 89101111109 0.12-0.15 mm
CCCCCCCCCC
Hybrid 89101111109 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans
CCCCCCCCCC
Volume 89101111109 0.05 mm
CCCCCCCCCC

Trend names in this family: Nude set · Wet Look (closed fans) · Hybrid (technique) — decoder

Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Never let outer-corner length exceed the centre.

Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm

Doll / Open-Eye

Top-recommended downturned map — centre length lifts the whole eye, strong outer curl finishes the lift.

MapZ1Z2Z3Z4Z5Z6Z7Thickness
Classic 1:1 89111211109 0.12-0.15 mm
CCCCCCCCDD
Hybrid 89111211109 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans
CCCCCCCCDD
Volume 89111211109 0.05 mm
CCCCCCCCDD

Trend names in this family: Barbie · Open Eye · Kim K (spiked) · Glam (mega volume) — decoder

Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Keep outer zones 2-3mm below the centre peak.

Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-D-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-D-0.05 mix 7-15mm

Cat-Eye

Anti-droop cat: elongation without corner weight.

MapZ1Z2Z3Z4Z5Z6Z7Thickness
Classic 1:1 89101112119 0.12-0.15 mm
CCCCCCDDD
Hybrid 89101112119 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans
CCCCCCDDD
Volume 89101112119 0.05 mm
CCCCCCDDD

Trend names in this family: Fox Eye · Kitten (soft tail) · Angel wing · Siren — decoder

Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Classic cat-eye is CONTRAINDICATED for downturned eyes — outer length emphasizes the droop, client looks sad/sleepy. This chart is the lift-modified compromise: peak at Z5, then length DROPS while D curl replaces it.

Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-D-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-D-0.05 mix 7-15mm

Squirrel / Fox

Balanced lift — length toward centre/arch, opens the eye without exaggerating the tilt.

MapZ1Z2Z3Z4Z5Z6Z7Thickness
Classic 1:1 89101213119 0.12-0.15 mm
CCCCCCCCDD
Hybrid 89101213119 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans
CCCCCCCCDD
Volume 89101213119 0.05 mm
CCCCCCCCDD

Trend names in this family: Fox-arch · soft lift — decoder

Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. Peak stays at ~70% across; the taper after it is what prevents droop.

Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-D-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-D-0.05 mix 7-15mm

Wispy

Centre-weighted spikes on a doll base.

MapZ1Z2Z3Z4Z5Z6Z7Thickness
Classic 1:1 89101211109 0.12-0.15 mm
CCCCCCCCDD
Hybrid 89101211109 0.15 mm classic strands + 0.05-0.07 mm volume fans
CCCCCCCCDD
Volume 89101211109 0.05 mm
CCCCCCCCDD

Trend names in this family: Feathered · Anime / Spike · Manga · Hollywood texture — decoder

Top row per map = length in mm · bottom row = curl per zone. No spikes in the last two zones — corner spikes read as droop.

Trays: LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-D-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-D-0.05 mix 7-15mm

Prefer it interactive? The Style Matcher walks the same matrix by your client’s shape and look, and the complete 120-map handbook bundles all eight shapes in one document — ask on WhatsApp.

Get the lashes for downturned eyes

The three looks above draw from one shelf:

Curl
C / CC / D
Thickness
0.12-0.15 mm classic · 0.03–0.07 mm volume fans
Lengths
8–13 mm mixed-length maps
Trays
LP-CLA-C-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-CC-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-C-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-CC-0.05 mix 7-15mm · LP-CLA-D-0.15 mix 7-15mm · LP-VOL-D-0.05 mix 7-15mm

We make the trays these maps call for — private label, from the fiber up: classic lashes, volume lashes, easy fan and premade fans, plus the adhesives and studio tools behind them. Mixed-length trays (7–15mm) cover a full zone map from a single tray.

Tell us the map, we’ll spec the order.

Spec my order on WhatsApp →

FAQ

Why is classic cat-eye avoided on downturned eyes?
Outer-corner length emphasizes the downward tilt — the client reads sad or sleepy. This is one of the few full-consensus contraindications in lash mapping.
How do downturned maps create lift without corner length?
By inverting the usual build: curl strength steps up toward the outer corner (into CC and D) while length steps down. The curl does the lifting the length is not allowed to do.
Which style leads orders for downturned eyes?
The doll / open-eye map — centre length lifts the whole eye and strong outer curls finish the lift, with outer zones kept 2–3mm below the centre peak.

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